An Insider's Guide to Puglia, Italy — Incredible Pasta, Beautiful Beach Towns, and Boutique Hotels Included (2024)

Word is definitely out on Puglia, the long, narrow coastal region that forms the heel of Italy’s boot. No longer a hidden gem or best-kept secret, Puglia’s dramatic beaches, Baroque cities, and whitewashed trulli are splashed over many an Instagram feed.

Yet compared to other regions of Italy, Puglia — pronounced pool-yah — still offers travelers the Italian vacation experiences they seek, while skipping much of the crowds and chaos of better-known destinations. “It’s definitely less-visited compared to iconic Italian regions like Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast,” says Madeline Jhawar, owner and custom travel planner with Italy Beyond the Obvious. “And Puglia really does have it all: fantastic food and wine, spectacular countryside and beach scenery, and a deep and fascinating history.”

Our guide highlights Puglia’s appealing mix of scenery, history, cuisine — and let’s not forget the agreeable weather most of the year — and maps out how to make the most of a trip to this sunny region.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Borgo Egnazia

The established go-to luxury spot in Puglia, Borgo Egnazia is a sprawling and impeccably curated compound that ranks among Travel + Leisure’s best resorts in Italy. T+L travel advisor Keith Waldon, founder and director of Departure Lounge, praises the outstanding service, where “privacy is guaranteed,” as well as the setting between the sea and the Valle d’Itria.

Le Alcove

The six suites at this boutique hotel each occupy a whitewashed trulli, with cool stone floors, eclectic decor, and modern bathrooms. We love the almost mystical feeling of comfort these spaces convey, as well as the homemade breakfast and the location in the heart of Alberobello town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Masseria Torre Maizza

A 2020 standout for best new hotels, Masseria Torre Maizza owes its polish to Rocco Forte — expect the brand’s unmatched service and serene, Olga Polizzi-designed interiors that seem to embody a cool breeze. Waldon says the feeling here is of “living in a real luxury masseria like at home, and it’s the only property with its own golf course.”

Palazzo Sant’Anna

Set in Lecce’s historic center, Palazzo Sant'Anna is curated to zen-like perfection. Puglia travel advisor Ylenia Sambati refers guests here for the light-filled suites, many with exposed stone and wood beams, as well as balconies. “Wake up to birds singing and a colorful and bountiful breakfast prepared with love by owner Beatrice and her team,” she says.

Best Things to Do

Take a cooking class.

Yes, cooking classes are ubiquitous in Italy, but the traditional cuisine of Puglia stands out, even in a country of great food. Waldon says to “take a pasta-focused cooking class in a local masseria with a mama” and go home with some new skills. Sambati likes the friendly vibe and easy instructions offered by Cook In Puglia in Lecce.

Relax at a lido.

Beaches in Puglia can be crowded in the summertime. Escape the ruckus at a beach club, or lido, such as Pettolecchia Il Lido, a luxury spot between Bari and Brindisi. Lounge beds, linen-clad gazebos, Frette towels, and waiter service set this one apart in a sea of beach umbrellas.

For families, try a trullo.

The cone-shaped trulli of Puglia’s Itria Valley are certainly unique, and according to Cherrye Moore of My Bella Vita Travel, they’re a hit with kids. “Families should rent a trullo villa and use it as a base for day trips to Alberobello, Ostuni, Locorotondo, and Monopoli. Many have pools and outside areas where the kids can run around.”

Head to the sea.

Puglia’s Adriatic coast is dramatic, especially between Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, where clear waters lap undulating cliffs and flow into the occasional sea cave. Both Waldon and Moore recommend chartering a private boat (Cataurora is a good choice), either for a sunset cruise or a half-day tour with stops for swimming and snorkeling.

Best Restaurants

LaltroBaffo

Puglia’s seafood is almost as famous as its orecchiette, and both Sambati and Waldon heartily recommend trying it at LaltroBaffo, an Otranto restaurant helmed by chef Cristina Conte, who, with her young, passionate team, turns out sophisticated takes on traditional Salento recipes.

Taverna della Gelosia

Sambati loves this rustic tavern in Ostuni’s old town. “It’s a bohemian, Salento-style trattoria serving local recipes that are lightly revisited.” Taverna della Gelosia is tucked away amid a jumble of alleys and stairways, which makes its vine-covered courtyard all the more romantic on a summer night.

Osteria Le Arpie

Handmade, ear-shaped orecchiette is the archetypal pasta of Puglia, and its production centers around Bari’s centro storico. Osteria Le Arpie is about as old-school as it gets, and its seasonal orecchiette con le cime di rapa (turnip greens) is Puglian comfort food epitomized. Also look for dishes served with pane di Altamura, Puglia’s heritage bread.

What to Buy in Puglia

Leather Sandals

“Puglia is famous for leather sandals, which you can find everywhere in local shops,” says Waldon. Erredibi is a top choice for handmade, locally made products, and they have stores in Brindisi, Ostuni, Lecce, and Otranto.

Primitivo Wine

“Puglia’s red primitivo wine, even when it’s just table wine quality, can stand up to reds from across the world,” says Moore. Combine some souvenir shopping with a winery tour and tasting at Masseria Li Veli, or just pop into a little grocery or enoteca to buy a few bottles to bring home.

Olive Oil

“Ancient olive groves define the landscape of Puglia, and buying newly pressed EVOO straight from a producer is something special,” says Moore. “Savoia offers well-organized tours and great oil, but don’t overlook smaller producers like L’Acropoli di Puglia in Martina Franca.”

Cities and Areas to Visit

Lecce

“We always tell our travelers not to miss the incredible small city of Lecce,” says Jhawar. “It’s referred to as the ‘Florence of the South’ because of its rich Baroque architecture.” Lecce’s soft limestone meant easy carving for 17th-century artisans and well, they went to town , as evidenced at Basilica di Santa Croce, the Basilica del Rosario, and the Duomo of Lecce.

Alberobello

“It's hard to recommend people skip a visit to the town of Alberobello, with its iconic trulli houses,” says Jhawar. But a lot of travelers have the same idea. “We always encourage our guests to combine Alberobello with less touristy nearby towns such as Locorotondo or Martina Franca.”

Gallipoli

While much of the tourist buzz centers around the Adriatic coast and the trulli area, don’t sleep on Gallipoli, which Waldon calls “the beach town of Puglia.” The Ionian coast town has ancient history, a quiet old town, a newer town brimming with life, and a nonstop Italian party scene in the summertime.

The Gargano

This picturesque promontory on Puglia’s northernmost coastline is dominated by Gargano National Park, where the scenery changes from beaches to mountains in just a few miles. For smaller towns, incredible biodiversity, more natural beaches, plus some dramatic sea stacks and cliffs, this is the region’s wilder side.

Best Time to Visit

Waldon recommends visiting Puglia in the shoulder seasons of April to June and September to mid-November in order to avoid the summer heat and crowds, as Puglia is a major holiday destination for Italians. Jhawar agrees, but adds that “Puglia is very lively during the height of summer, with many local festivals.” The takeaway? If you plan a summer visit, book your accommodations and rental car well in advance, and brace yourself for crowded — albeit gorgeous — beaches and towns.

How to Get There

The airports at Bari and Brindisi serve flights from within Italy and Europe, though many incoming travelers opt to fly into Rome’s Fiumicino airport and arrange a rental car or transfer from there. Both Trenitalia and Italo trains serve Puglia, though be aware that with historic hill towns, train stations are usually in the lower town, which might be several miles away from the centro.

How to Get Around

You can get between Puglia’s major tourist centers via Trenitalia’s regional trains and a few private lines. But getting to smaller, rural destinations and more remote coastal areas is trickier by train. “We typically book private drivers or rental cars for our travelers,” says Jhawar. “Booking a rental car in Puglia is a decent approach — just make sure you know where to park in order to avoid the limited traffic zones found in most Italian cities.”